Sonoma Moment

On my last road trip down south, I had the opportunity to drive through the Valley of the Moon, it has been some time since I have ventured there. Traveling down Highway 12 reminded me of this valley's panoramic beauty and unique qualities and made me wonder why I have not taken the opportunity to visit more often. It's like those people who live in New York city for years and years and rarely go to the Empire State Building or the Statue of Liberty! The Valley of the Moon is a special place with a unique identity which has the quaint town of Sonoma at the southern gateway...a must visit as far as I am concerned. One of the main reasons for my trek in this direction was a new winery that I had been introduced to by my friend, Doug. I had sampled some of their wines at Doug's home and was impressed by what they are doing. It is called Highway 12 Vineyards and Winery and they have a cool tasting room in the historic Sonoma Plaza, unusual for the region, and the tastings are complimentary. Driving down Highway 12 and beyond some of my favorites such as Kunde Estate, Chateau St. Jean, Valley of the Moon and B. R. Cohen, I pulled into a warehouse which is the 'brain center' of the Highway 12 wines. I was greeted by Paul Giusto, one of the managing partners of this venture and after a short conversation I immediately felt his passion for the wines. Paul and I proceeded to taste as he told me more about the vineyards they source, which are through the corridor of Highway 12 and also from the Carneros District. I love that Paul and his crew have chosen to produce wines in several categories and I dare say that there is something for everybody in their portfolio! The brief history is that this winery was founded in 2003 with Winemaker Michael Sebastiani at the helm and they are sourcing some of the best vineyards in the valley, such as the Serres Ranch, Sangiacomo and Prenda Vineyards. In addition to the wines listed below they also have a tier of amazing Reserve red wines that are aging extremely well! I found my visit with Paul to be refreshing and it is great to know that the entrepreneurial spirit lives on in the Valley of Sonoma!

Here is a peak at some of their wines:

2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley $14.50
Hints of green apple and melon and crisp and refreshing!

2009 Chardonnay, Nueva $18.00
A lush Chard with a touch of minerality and elegant light butter finish!

2008 Sonoma County Red Blend $22.00
A 'composition' of great Sonoma valley vineyards exibits a balance of fruit!

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley $38.00
A well crafted Cab with hints of raspberry and blackberry earth and oak!

http://highway12winery.com/

Cheers!

The Secret Life of Grapes

Have you noticed that wine grapes have a way of tasting like other fruits or flowers and even sometimes spices? We've all heard terms such as 'citrus', 'cola' 'cherry' 'honeysuckle' as well as 'tar, 'chocolate' and 'anise' in describing the flavor of wine, and a lot of what you are tasting are the characteristics of a region or typical of the soils in any given AVA. If you were to line up a few sauvignon blanc wines, I think you would be able to immediately discern the difference in the flavors of each region. When you consider all of the flavors wines have to offer, it becomes a challenge when it comes to pairing the food you eat with the perfect wine. One key element to consider is the acidity or sweetness of a wine to try and counterbalance a dish. A port or sauterne wine will have a high sugar content and have the perfect heaviness and sweetness to pair with your pastry or chocolate course. Acidic foods, on the other hand, sometimes need an equally acidic wine to complement their sourness. Classic tangy foods such as chicken cacciatore or lemon cappellini will pair well with a sauvignon blanc or sangiovese. The sweet/acidity conundrum can often be solved by pairing classic recipes with wines from the same region as they tend to echo each other. Consider this when pairing wine with cheeses as they tend to soak up the local environment during the aging process. One more aspect of pairing wine with food revolves around the wine's body which can be 'light' or 'heavy'. Usually, the heavier the wine, the higher is alcohol content. For instance, a lamb roast is heavier than a grilled salmon dish and one might pair a crisp unoaked chardonnay with the salmon and a full bodied syrah with the lamb. Looking at the rainbow from light to heavy; the lightest white wines are Pinot Grigio and Riesling...medium-weighted would include Chablis and Chardonnays with white Burgundy and Pinot Gris at the heavier side. Lighter red wines include Beaujolais sliding on the scale into mediums like Pinot Noir, Chianti, Syrah or Rhone style wines and then, of course, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zins! Every wine is different as is every dish that you prepare and as conventional guidelines for pairing exist, always trust your instinct when it comes to choosing the right wine for your dish.

Here is a simple guide:

Chardonnay, Sauvignin Blanc: Generally good with strong flavored cheeses, cream sauces, seafood, rich soups.

Gewurztraminer, Riesling: Go well with pork, ham, Indian or Thai and Chinese cuisine, chicken and turkey.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon: Pair with roast beef, roast fowl, venison, cheddar and blue cheeses.

Pinot Noir: I like to pair with roast beef, roast chicken, turkey, lighter pasta dishes, salmon dishes.

Zinfandel: Goes well with beef dishes and heavy pasta dishes with rich tomato sauces.

Port, Sauternes: Chocolate, pastry.............maybe a cigar!

Here are a few of my favorites:

Souverain Winemaker's Reserve Russian River Valley 2008 Chardonnay with Humbolt Fog Goat Cheese... ($30.00)

Arbios Cellars 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled Rib Eye Steak medium rare...($32.00)

Fritz Estate Grown 2008 Late Harvest Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley with bitter sweet chocolate and a medium bodied cigar...($30.00)

Cheers

Twisted

There is an ongoing debate over wine bottle closers...I'm talking about 'cork' versus 'screw top' otherwise known as Stelvin. I remember the first time I was served a bottle of wine at a restaurant where the waiter simply showed me the label and proceeded to twist the cap and then pour. Not so romantic I thought, but the wine tasted just fine! Then came the time I opened a bottle of wine and to my surprise, the stopper appeared to be of 'alien' construct, it looked like plastic or rubber...even less romantic. The debate continues over which stopper is the best suited for the fine wines we adore. A case can be made for all three as to why they might be the best stopper for any given wine and the burning question of which one is the best one for the environment. Natural cork wine stoppers have been harvested for hundreds of years and, you might be surprised to learn, support an age-old practice that keeps the world’s relatively small population of cork oak trees alive.These scattered pockets of cork oaks, mostly in Portugal and Spain, thrive in the hot, arid conditions of the southern Mediterranean, sheltering a wide array of biodiversity and helping to protect the soil from drying out. Plastic and Stelvin alternatives have been coming on strong in recent years the main reason for use being to avoid cork mold that can taint wine. There is no question that the alternative stoppers can prevent a wine from being 'corked', but when you weigh the effects of manufacturing each of these stoppers, cork is the one that most benefits the environment. Ahh...but now you say, what of the hassle of getting the cork out of the bottle!?!
Not a day goes by that I don't employ the use of a corkscrew. There is a basket in our kitchen which holds all kinds of wine related items, plastic and fine carved wood bottle stoppers, aerators galore (and yes, they do work), and corkscrews of course! I even keep one handy in the side pocket of my car door...I never want to be caught without one in reach. Corkscrew design, it seems, may have been derived from the 'gun worm’ which was used to remove unspent charges from musket gun barrels back in the 1600's. I personally would be wary of pulling out 'unspent charges' from the barrel of a musket or any gun for that matter! The first ever patent for a corkscrew was granted in 1795 to the Reverend Samuel Henshall, in England. Henshall fashioned a simple disk between the worm and the shank. The disk prevented the worm from going too deep into the cork. Since then there have been a vast array of designs and although they all perform the same one-dimensional function of removing the cork from the bottle, the choices are staggering! The 'wing' corkscrew, is sometimes dubbed the angel and has two levers on either side...we have all see that one. The 'Sommelier knife is also know as the waiter’s friend and usually folds or closes into itself like a jack-knife. The 'twin prong' puller is probably one of the lesser used but when mastered can extract a stopper without damaging it and can re-insert the cork as well. I believe we even have a battery-operated corkscrew, which removes the cork by simply holding down on a button (not as romantic a notion though). I do have great affinity for corkscrews, no matter what shape, size or configuration; after all, one of the happiest sounds is the subtle 'pop' of the cork as you pull it out of the bottle!

Here are a few pairings of wine and corkscrews...go figure!

Screwpull and Cross Barn (Paul Hobbs) 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35.00)

Sommelier knife and Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2008 ($36.00)

Wing corkscrew and Mauritson Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2009 ($25.00)

Twin prong and Melville Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills estate 2009 ($29.00)

Cheers!

Etiquette

Spring time is a time for renewal, and also a time when may wineries have tasting events. There is nothing like a sunny spring day at a winery with a garden full of flowers to experience wine. Near the Alexander Valley, there is an event coming up at the end of April known as 'Passport to Dry Creek' weekend. Kirsten and I have attended this event a number of times and it is always fun to invite friends to share a wine discovery weekend. I have been reading many blogs and articles about proper tasting room etiquette as of late and you may wonder what that really means? All too often we have been at a winery sipping a flight of wines being poured by the winemaker or staff person and all of a sudden the moment is spoiled by the voice of someone just a little too loud. Maybe they are bragging about their "profound" knowledge of wine or perhaps they are asking for a larger pour than the "feeble" 2 ounces they got from the staff member. If you frequent winery tasting rooms, I am sure you have experienced this! Something else that can ruin an experience or even a conversation with a winemaker is to have it interrupted by an over the top group that just got off the party bus. Don't get me wrong, I am very welcoming of all who have passion for wine and the fun of discovery, but it is important to be considerate of others as well. The first and foremost important thing to me when wine tasting is to pace myself and I always try not to start tasting on an empty stomach, at Passport Weekend this is never a problem because the wineries serve a generous abundance of food! It is always a good idea to drink plenty of water in between and when tasting, know that you do not have to take full swallows to get the nuance of any wine...it's even okay to sip, swish and spit (but only into the buckets provided!) I am not a fan of those who brag and especially not of those who criticize the wine they are tasting so that everyone in the room can hear it!!! Be tactful, and if the wine is not to your liking, then just say 'interesting' or nothing at all. Another thing that can interfere with the purity of the tasting room experience is an over abundance of perfume and cologne. I love when people take notes and I have often done so myself, it tells me that they are really eager to learn. Don't, however take it too seriously it is supposed to be fun. And never try to argue with the staff about what you are tasting in the glass...once again, just better to be under the radar. The worst offense to me is when someone begins to gab on their cell phone while standing at the bar, not even walking away and relinquishing their spot to some patient customer waiting to be served. At the end of the day, for the sake of everyone in the tasting room be aware of your surroundings and sensitive to others and to the winery staff...step up, take your pour, ask questions, and step away and observe. Half of the fun for me is to watch other peoples' reaction to the wine they are sampling! Now go out there and taste!

Here is a preview of the wines we will be tasting 'Passport to Dry Creek' weekend:

A. Rafanelli 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
A full bodied Cabernet with intense layers of ripe cherry and blackberry current.
$49.00

2007 Stuhlmuller Vineyard Chardonnay
The signature Stuhlmuller light straw color with aromas of toasted nut and creamy apple.
$34.00

2009 Quivera Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
Concentrated flavors of melon and fig with a grass and lemon finish.
$18.00

2009 Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel
My personal favorite! This wine exibits aromas of wild berry and scents of black current
$24.00

Cheers!

Riesling Rising

Riesling is probably one of the most mysterious of grape varietals...one that people might put in a category of being just a wine to enjoy with dessert. The fact is that Riesling, at it's best, can be a prime example of balance between sugar and acid encompassing a graceful contrast between these two elements and often rounded out by a floral fruit palate. Riesling can be highly aromatic with hints of apple and peach and often has floral undertones that have a delicate influence on the palate! These wines originated in Germany's Rhine and Mosel River valleys and some of the most expensive dessert wines come from these late harvest grapes. There are two ends of the spectrum for Riesling wines...the sweet extreme and the down right dry! When it comes to Riesling, the climate is a key component. The warmer, drier and sunny climate of Alsace in France for instance, makes a distinctively different Riesling than in Germany where the vines may have a more difficult time ripening in the cooler climate. Outside of the chilly Rhine homeland, and in places such as California, Rieslings have the opportunity to reach a level of ripeness that they have not been able to achieve in Germany. The tendency for California Riesling therefore is to be softer and fuller with more diverse flavors. Once overshadowed by Chardonnays in the 1980's and 1990's, Riesling's are emerging as a versatile alternative when it comes to food pairing the sharp acidity/sweetness in Riesling's serve as a good balance to stand up to stronger flavors and especially the spices of Thai and Chinese Cuisine. Change is never easy, and every once in a while it could be fun to try a wine that might not fall in your daily 'comfort zone'! I recently tried a bunch of Riesling wines from four different regions and this is barely a scratch of the surface of experiences in this unique varietal!

S. A. Prum Essence Riesling 2009 Mosel Germany
Aromatic bouquet with scents of apricot and peach.
$10

2008 Chateau St. Michelle Riesling 'Eroica' Columbia Valley
This wine exudes mandarin orange and sweet lime aromas.
$24

2008 Navarro Vineyards Riesling Anderson Valley Mendocino
A medium bodied wine that opens with a mild apple bouquet.
$18

2009 Kilikanoon Riesling "Mort's Block" Australia
An intense wine with hints of green apple and lemon blossom...dry.
$20

Cheers!

Oak-y dokey!

A lot of my friends have been asking me about Chardonnays recently, and I must say that the camp seems to be equally divided between those who like the oaked style and those who like the unoaked version. Oaked Chardonnay has been the popular choice in the U.S. and in California in particular since the 1990's but it has also influenced wine producers in other regions such as Australia. This type of Chardonnay has generally been aged in oak and subject to malolactic fermentation, the amount of exposure to the oak and the type of oak, French or American, can greatly influence the wine's structure. It can be rich, pleasantly aromatic and easily approached and would pair well with poached salmon with a caper butter sauce or a veal dish for example. The wines tend to come across as toasty and mouth filling and you might hear the terms "vanilla", "butterscotch" and "coconut" referenced a lot. There are times, however, that winemakers go overboard with the oak, and California is getting a bit of a reputation for "over-oaked" Chardonnays, but a good winemaker will find the balance and finesse the flavors to the perfect level, as is shown in the sampling below! On the other hand, "Old-world" Chardonnay (Chablis) has traditionally been made without the influence of oak but rather in stainless steel tanks or neutral cooperage. A good unoaked Chard should have vibrant fruit flavors and refreshing acidity, it has a very distinctive flavor and can be a very crisp and refreshing alternative. It pairs well with foods such as pan seared bay scallops or a braised pork and its slightly mineral taste along with the acidity helps cut through 'fattiness' in foods and leave you with a clean palate. I have never been a fan of Chardonnays that are served too cold and in the case of unoaked Chard's, a warm up in the glass will always help to bring out the softer fruits! While both of these styles have their positive attributes, it appears that the regional style differences will remain. I still enjoy a well crafted 'big' Chardonnay with the vanilla, butter and creaminess, but I believe that in a 'perfect' world there is room for both and I would urge you to experiment a little...try a Chablis or two and take notes. Grab a bottle of the one that might go against your taste and give it a chance...you might be surprised!

Here are some oaked and unoaked Chardonnays that I like:

Oaked Chardonnay:

2008 Mer Soleil Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands $35.00
Citrus drive nose with vanilla, lemon and meringue pie on the palate!

2008 Kali Hart Chardonnay Monterey County $15.00
Fruit forward with lush flavors and a 'honeydew' richness!

2009 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay $30.00
Rich and vibrant tropical fruit flavors blend with toasty oak notes!

2008 Geyser Peak Chardonnay Alexander Valley $11.00
This Chard is ultra rich with stone fruit flavors and a touch of oak!




Unoaked Chardonnay:

2008 Mer Soleil Silver Chardonnay $19.00
Mineral driven nose with citrus lemon and grapefruit flavors!

2008 Lioco Chardonnay Sonoma Coast $20.00
This wine is a blend of four vineyards and features a core of citrus and chalky minerality!

2009 Toad Hollow Unoaked Chardonnay $13.00
Made from 90% Mendocino and 10% Sonoma grapes...

2008 Kunde Nu Chardonnay $15.00
Great natural fruitiness and slight floral aromas!

Cheers!

The Single Vineyard

This weekend, Kirsten and I helped her brother, Simon Inman pour his Inman Family Wines at the 'Pinot Days L.A.' event at the Barker Hanger in the Santa Monica Airport. Kathleen, the winemaker and Simon’s wife, was busy at their winery near Santa Rosa serving visitors to Winter Wine land, so in order to stay true to Inman “Family” wines, Kirsten and I were recruited to help out in L.A! The day started early with a 10:00 AM set up time for two sessions of tasting, the first for the wine trade and then the second for the public. I believe there were over 100 wineries pouring their wares and the crowds indeed showed up! Since there were three of us manning the table, I was able to take some time to roam the floor and visit and taste some very finely crafted wines. I loved listing to the conversation around the booths, some tasters were knowledgeable and taking notes and others were just curious and keenly interested in learning and let me tell you, this was a good place to learn as there were some award winning wines being poured!

Back at the Inman Family Wines table, there were three Pinot's being offered; the 2006 Russian River Valley, the 2007 Thorn Ridge Ranch and the 2007 OGV (Olivet Grange Vineyard). The latter two wines are 'single vineyard', which made me think of where it all starts...in the vineyard! I love being in a vineyard and walking through one makes me think about all of the elements, the terroire, the orientation of the vines, the style of trellis, and the many other factors that contribute to the end result. I think part of the specific importance of a single vineyard is that a wine made from grapes grown in a single place, rather than being sourced from several different vineyards as many are, shows the unique characteristics of that place. We grow Cabernet Sauvignon on a hillside that faces southwest at an elevation from 1200 to 1600 feet. This is a version of extreme farming on a hillside with its own set of challenges. The Inman Family Thorn Ridge Ranch Vineyard is located close to the ocean in the Sebastopol Hills at an elevation of around 900 feet. This area is at the southern most tip of the Russian River AVA (in fact it was only incorporated into the AVA in 2005.) The Olivet Grange Vineyard is on the floor of the Russian River valley appellation. Both of these vineyards have a distinctively different makeup and Kathleen has put a lot of work into crafting some fine Pinot's!

My personal top scoring wines tend to come from single vineyards. Maybe that is because winemakers and grape growers can achieve a greater focus on the vines to make sure that the grapes are more meticulously grown and harvested. 'Estate' or 'Estate Bottled' are terms that are controlled by the TTB (the Feds) and mean that 100% of the wine comes from grapes grown on land controlled or owned by the winery. I love the experimentation involved in wine...I love the discovery part of it. If you have never taken the time to familiarize yourself with single vineyard wines, I encourage you to do so and I think you will find a deeper respect for all that goes into the great wine you might be sipping!

Here are some of my favorite 'single vineyard' wines:

2007 Inman Family Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) Pinot Noir ($52.00)
The red fruit flavor dominates with layers of ripe cherry, rhubarb, clove and raspberry...an elegant wine!

Morgan Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Double L. Vineyard 2008 ($48.00)
This vintage presents aromas of cherry, blackberry and cranberry with a touch of oak in the finish!

Talley Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley Rincon Vineyard 2008 ($52)
This wine has a layered bouquet of cola, clove and baked figs with a silky texture!

Melville Chardonnay Estate Santa Rita Hills 2007 ($30)
Straw yellow in the glass with appealing aromas of honey and lemon/ Rich and bright on the palate!

Ramey Chardonnay Russian River Valley Ritchie Vineyard 2007 ($57)
A full bodied wine with an earthiness, rich minerality and expressing hints of peach and melon!

Talley Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Rincon Vineyard 2008 ($42)
This is a complex wine with hints of lemon peel and tropical fruit...creamy citrus and balanced acidity!