Oak-y dokey!

A lot of my friends have been asking me about Chardonnays recently, and I must say that the camp seems to be equally divided between those who like the oaked style and those who like the unoaked version. Oaked Chardonnay has been the popular choice in the U.S. and in California in particular since the 1990's but it has also influenced wine producers in other regions such as Australia. This type of Chardonnay has generally been aged in oak and subject to malolactic fermentation, the amount of exposure to the oak and the type of oak, French or American, can greatly influence the wine's structure. It can be rich, pleasantly aromatic and easily approached and would pair well with poached salmon with a caper butter sauce or a veal dish for example. The wines tend to come across as toasty and mouth filling and you might hear the terms "vanilla", "butterscotch" and "coconut" referenced a lot. There are times, however, that winemakers go overboard with the oak, and California is getting a bit of a reputation for "over-oaked" Chardonnays, but a good winemaker will find the balance and finesse the flavors to the perfect level, as is shown in the sampling below! On the other hand, "Old-world" Chardonnay (Chablis) has traditionally been made without the influence of oak but rather in stainless steel tanks or neutral cooperage. A good unoaked Chard should have vibrant fruit flavors and refreshing acidity, it has a very distinctive flavor and can be a very crisp and refreshing alternative. It pairs well with foods such as pan seared bay scallops or a braised pork and its slightly mineral taste along with the acidity helps cut through 'fattiness' in foods and leave you with a clean palate. I have never been a fan of Chardonnays that are served too cold and in the case of unoaked Chard's, a warm up in the glass will always help to bring out the softer fruits! While both of these styles have their positive attributes, it appears that the regional style differences will remain. I still enjoy a well crafted 'big' Chardonnay with the vanilla, butter and creaminess, but I believe that in a 'perfect' world there is room for both and I would urge you to experiment a little...try a Chablis or two and take notes. Grab a bottle of the one that might go against your taste and give it a chance...you might be surprised!

Here are some oaked and unoaked Chardonnays that I like:

Oaked Chardonnay:

2008 Mer Soleil Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands $35.00
Citrus drive nose with vanilla, lemon and meringue pie on the palate!

2008 Kali Hart Chardonnay Monterey County $15.00
Fruit forward with lush flavors and a 'honeydew' richness!

2009 Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay $30.00
Rich and vibrant tropical fruit flavors blend with toasty oak notes!

2008 Geyser Peak Chardonnay Alexander Valley $11.00
This Chard is ultra rich with stone fruit flavors and a touch of oak!




Unoaked Chardonnay:

2008 Mer Soleil Silver Chardonnay $19.00
Mineral driven nose with citrus lemon and grapefruit flavors!

2008 Lioco Chardonnay Sonoma Coast $20.00
This wine is a blend of four vineyards and features a core of citrus and chalky minerality!

2009 Toad Hollow Unoaked Chardonnay $13.00
Made from 90% Mendocino and 10% Sonoma grapes...

2008 Kunde Nu Chardonnay $15.00
Great natural fruitiness and slight floral aromas!

Cheers!