Sunday, March 10, 2013

What's your story?




About a year ago I wrote a blog addressing the emerging China wine market and made mention of the fact that they are one of the largest consumers of American products...a year later I am scratching my head a little trying to make sense of this market place.  Wineries recognize that the potential for sales is great in China and marketers across the wine spectrum have been making repeated efforts to crack it.  What is it that the Chinese people identify with?  What might draw them to one wine but not another?  Where will they spend their money and how much will they spend?  I know from reading many articles that a lot of 'high end' French wines seem to sell there for more than top dollar.  My friend Hubert and I have what one would consider to be strong contacts in the China market, we have been exploring this space over the last year and there has been a lot of back and forth on the variables that make a difference.  We discovered that the weight of the bottle and the label are both important  but more interestingly it has become clear to us that the Chinese want to be able to 'identify' with the wine.  They want to hear  a narrative... something they can relate or even aspire to. This whole experience has caused me to think more about the story...what is a wine's story?  Italian families have been making Chianti for a very long time and the picture I envision is of an entire extended family participating in the crush.  The French have a long history of the great Chateau's and generations of winemakers, ancient vines and renowned appellations, Bordeaux has had an effective narrative, I get a clear picture in my head when someone mentions Champagne or Burgundy.  Here in California one might be able to sell the 'dream' of hillside vineyards with fog banks below, of sun and surf, of great choices in gourmet foods, summer sunsets that linger while you sip the perfect glass of wine...you get the picture.  Napa has emerged with it's own story.   But I have a personal feeling of love for Sonoma and of course a vested interest in our vineyard.  I have been fortunate to visit many wineries in California over many years and the wines that stick with me are the ones that have a story...I love making that connection!  For instance, on a recent visit to A. Rafanelli Winery in the Dry Creek Valley, we were able to spend a good half hour speaking with family member and winemaker Shelly who shared stories of growing up on the vineyard and aspiring to become the winemaker and how her father made sure that she got her hands dirty first in the vineyard and then on the tractor learning all aspects of the business!   On the Pine Mountain hillside where we grow Cabernet, there is lots of history and folk lore, from the 'Gentleman Bandit' Black Bart robbing stagecoaches up and down our road to the Friday evening 'dance socials' that used to take place in the old Ratto family winery just above us.  The old winery structure remains, although it is in dire need of repair but the vineyards are still going strong! (I can picture the horse drawn buggies driving past that transport the ladies and gentlemen to the dance).  On our own land we have had battles with the wild boar turning up the soil between the vines in search of roots and mushrooms...not only are they big (160 lbs), they are mean! There is also the fact that the berries on our hillside are smaller and in tighter bunches and all of our neighbors will attest that hillside farming is a bit more of a challenge in many respects. I think that the Chinese are not alone,  most people want to feel that they are getting an 'insiders' peak at a vineyard or winery, that they are part of an exclusive club with the all access pass.   In 1976 the 'Judgment in Paris' helped establish the modern era of California wine making and thus an important milestone in our history.   Now with each growing season, we are able to add more stories.   I must admit that every bottle of wine I buy, no matter what the cost, is personal to me and we should always been curious to know the story behind each one!

Here are some truly fine 'sipping' wines...enjoy!

2009 Chateau St Jean Reserve Chardonnay Robert Young Alexander Valley
Classic Alexander Valley aromas of yellow stone fruit and citrus begin the nose on this bright and vibrant Chardonnay. As with most Chardonnays made from the Robert Young Vineyard, it is easy to find the signature viscosity in the mouth on this wine. Rich and mouth-coating, this wine offers pleasing lemon oil, pear and hazelnut notes along with a creamy texture. The round and juicy palate leads to a long finish with a hint of spice.

Saracina 2010 Pinot Noir
The lasting impression of our 2010 vintage is one of tremendous purity and elegance. It has an ethereal, perfumed nose of sweet raspberry and cherry, and an underlying root vegetable earthiness, perhaps owing to the small percentage of whole clusters. The tannins are sweet, and ample acidity keeps it nervy, balanced and penetrating. This wine exemplifies the best of a cool climate Pinot Noir.

Dry Creek vineyards 2009 Meritage
Classic Bordeaux aromas leap from the glass with cassis, red cherry and peppery nuances. After several minutes, wonderful perfumed characters of rose petal, dried flowers, sage, and vanilla begin to mingle with the darker fruit elements. On the palate, the wine is rich and structured with excellent depth and silky, well integrated tannins. The finish is seamless and full bodied from the beginning to the last sip; it will age beautifully and develop in the bottle for years to come.


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