
About a year ago I wrote a blog addressing the emerging China wine
market and made mention of the fact that they are one of the largest
consumers of American products...a year later I am scratching my
head a little trying to make sense of this market place. Wineries
recognize that
the potential for sales is great in China and marketers across the wine
spectrum have been making repeated efforts to crack it. What is it
that the Chinese
people identify with? What might draw them to one wine but not
another? Where will they spend their money and how much will they
spend? I know from reading many articles that a lot of 'high end'
French wines seem to sell there for more than top dollar. My friend
Hubert and I have what one would consider to be
strong contacts in the China market, we have been exploring this
space over the last year and there has been a lot of back and forth on the variables that make a difference. We discovered that the weight of the bottle
and
the label are both important but more interestingly
it has become clear
to us that the Chinese want to be able to 'identify' with the wine. They want to hear a narrative... something they can relate or even
aspire to. This whole experience has caused me to think more about the
story...what is a wine's story? Italian families have been making
Chianti for a very long time and the picture I envision is of an entire
extended family participating in the crush. The French have a long
history of the great Chateau's and generations of winemakers, ancient
vines and renowned appellations, Bordeaux has had an effective narrative, I get a clear picture in my head when someone mentions
Champagne or Burgundy. Here in California one might be able to sell the 'dream' of
hillside vineyards with fog banks below, of sun and surf, of great
choices in gourmet foods, summer sunsets that linger while you sip the
perfect glass of wine...you get the picture. Napa has emerged with it's
own story. But I have a personal feeling of love for Sonoma
and of course a vested interest in our vineyard. I have been fortunate to
visit many wineries in California over many years and the wines
that stick with me are the ones that have a story...I love making that
connection! For instance, on a recent visit to
A. Rafanelli Winery in
the Dry Creek Valley, we were able to spend a good half hour speaking
with family member and winemaker Shelly who shared stories of growing up
on the vineyard and aspiring to become the winemaker and how her father
made sure that she got her hands dirty first in the vineyard and then
on the tractor learning all aspects of the business! On

the Pine Mountain hillside
where we grow Cabernet, there is lots of
history and folk lore, from the 'Gentleman Bandit' Black Bart robbing
stagecoaches up and down our road to the Friday evening 'dance socials'
that used to take place in the old Ratto family winery just above us. The old winery structure remains, although it is in dire need
of repair but the vineyards are still going strong! (I can picture the
horse drawn buggies driving past that transport the ladies and gentlemen
to the dance). On our own land we have had battles with the wild boar
turning up the soil between the vines in search of roots and
mushrooms...not only are they big (160 lbs), they are mean! There is also the fact that the berries on our hillside
are smaller and in tighter bunches and all of our neighbors will attest that hillside farming is a bit more
of a
challenge in many respects. I think that the Chinese are not alone,
most people want to feel that they are getting an 'insiders' peak at a
vineyard or winery, that they are part of an exclusive club with the all
access pass. In 1976 the 'Judgment in Paris' helped establish the modern
era of California wine making and thus an important milestone in our
history. Now with each growing season, we are able to add more
stories. I must admit that every
bottle of wine I buy, no matter what the cost, is personal to me and we should always been curious to know the story behind each one!
Here are some truly fine 'sipping' wines...enjoy!

2009 Chateau St Jean Reserve Chardonnay Robert Young Alexander Valley
Classic Alexander Valley aromas of yellow stone fruit and citrus begin the nose on this bright and vibrant Chardonnay. As with most Chardonnays made from the Robert Young Vineyard, it is easy to find the signature viscosity in the mouth on this wine. Rich and mouth-coating, this wine offers pleasing lemon oil, pear and hazelnut notes along with a creamy texture. The round and juicy palate leads to a long finish with a hint of spice.

Saracina 2010 Pinot Noir
The lasting impression of our 2010 vintage is one of tremendous purity and elegance. It has an ethereal, perfumed nose of sweet raspberry and cherry, and an underlying root vegetable earthiness, perhaps owing to the small percentage of whole clusters. The tannins are sweet, and ample acidity keeps it nervy, balanced and penetrating. This wine exemplifies the best of a cool climate Pinot Noir.

Dry Creek vineyards 2009 Meritage
Classic Bordeaux aromas leap from the glass with cassis, red cherry and peppery nuances. After several minutes, wonderful perfumed characters of rose petal, dried flowers, sage, and vanilla begin to mingle with the darker fruit elements. On the palate, the wine is rich and structured with excellent depth and silky, well integrated tannins. The finish is seamless and full bodied from the beginning to the last sip; it will age beautifully and develop in the bottle for years to come.
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